These are perilous times for loyal fans of Paris burger joints such as the holy church of Blend, the well-oiled atelier at Big Fernand and the feisty crowd-puller, le Camion qui Fume. With the arrival of a new player on the scene, the war for le burguerrr Parisien just–got–real.
PNY, a.k.a Paris- New York had me wrapped around its little finger before I even sunk my teeth into their boeuf Breton Pie Noir; matured for three weeks (this is serious meat), paired with gourmet toppings and a fluffy glazed bun – and as Blend burger disciples will know, half of the battle is the bun.
On the vibrant rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis amidst local fishmongers and century-old brasseries, PNY is lit up like a vintage cinema with old marquee lettering announcing their New York style hamburger joint as if it were the new movie star in town. Because it kind of is. It’s that dark horse, smouldering new talent that’s sneaked up from behind and stolen the spotlight for me on the Paris burger scene.
This doesn’t feel like it’s just about the hamburger, i.e. you won’t be cramped into cafeteria bench-style dining and made to feel like you need to wolf down your meat sandwich and get out. PNY has paired its winning gourmet burgers with a trendy and sophisticated, let’s-savour-the-atmosphere style ambience, something the other frontrunners in Paris unfortunately lack.
They’ve worked with edgy Parisian architects, CUT in creating a beautiful new restaurant inspired by the similarities of two cities, Paris and New York. Playing with influences from the old starry lights and giant signs of 1930s Times Square or Broadway on the ground floor, upstairs gets more intimate with dim lighting, weathered cement walls and a projector screen that plays old movies while you dine, as if you were in a secret Parisian arts club from the sixties. In other words, the kind of place you want to linger over a bottle of red after a very, very good burger.
Oh and p.s. did I mention the “loaded fries” a.k.a 18 month old cheddar cheese fries with smoked bacon? Let me tell you, I’ve looked, and before PNY came around, Paris was a cheese fries desert. It was as if they had been specially delivered, straight from New York.
PNY has been open for three months but I couldn’t help but wonder the entire time, why the heck didn’t I hear about this place even earlier? With little to no presence on the Paris food blogosphere yet, it appears PNY has put less energy into their press and pr, which makes me feel proud to be writing one of their first real reviews, but also a little worried that I’m giving up a very good secret…
Find the restaurant at 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, Paris
Tel: 01 47 70 15 24
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