Istria & the North
We recommend flying inland into Zagreb, the capital, and then driving through northern Croatia along a trail which ends in Pula, with stops for wine tasting, truffle hunting, and more. You will end up on the coast, in the capital of Istria, perfect for days on the beach, day trips to wild islands and mouth watering seafood. You can fly home from Pula’s airport, or you can continue following the trail down south in part 2 of this guide.
Arriving in Zagreb
One could say that the best place to get the taste of any country is in its capital, the melting pot of each crevice and corner, north and south. The buzzing metropolis of Croatia is filled with offbeat museums, cool coffee stops, and even an inland swimming spot for those who can’t make it to the coast.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Wiki commons
Culture in the Capital: Have you ever been to a Museum of Broken Relationships? Let yourself get lost in the forgotten love stories and tales behind the objects on display.
The Museum of Naîve Art is filled with colourful, careful and surreal works by various self-taught Croatian artists of the 20th century.
The Nikola Tesla Museum is dedicated to the supernatural scientist of the 19th century. Further inland, you can also take a detour to visit Nikola Tesla’s childhood and birth home in the little mountain village, Smiljan.
Al Fresco Delights: Mirogoj cemetery is a peaceful cemetery that rivals Paris’s Père Lachaise.
Maksimir Park is the first public park in Southeastern Europe. It’s where you’ll see the local dogs busily sniffing around on their daily walks, and locals spending time together catching up and sharing each other’s stories.
Swimming in the City: If you’re already missing the beach, Lake Jarun (otherwise known as the “Zagreb Sea”) is scenic and easy to get to. Grab a coffee at Kavantura on the way.
WHERE TO EAT
Finjak is a charming dolls’ house cafe filled with chandeliers, golden frames, and pastel coloured cushions.
Other endearing cafés worth popping into include Cogito Coffee Shop, Express Bar and Program Bar.
WHERE TO STAY
Hostel Swanky Mint is a hip and affordable accommodation option set in a former dry-cleaner and textile-dye workshop. Swimming pool, friendly bar and terrace included.
Rijeka
The European Capital of Culture for 2020, Rijeka makes a fine introduction to Croatia’s seaside, with its romantic Belle Epoque port that lights up at night in a way that will tug at the heartstrings of any old nostalgic.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Vitamin Sea: Sabličevo Beach is the locals’ spot for a swim in the city.
Get a sense of local life: No supermarket can replace the charm of having personal contact with the vendors and the excitement of an unpredictable purchase at the main Rijeka market – Placa.
Picnic under the Moonlight: Find an empty spot on the water along the Molo Longo promenade with twinkling views of Rijeka.
Time Travel on the Croatian Riviera: Admire the grand early-1900s hotels & villas of Opatija and Lovran. For a charming stroll, the Lungomare seafront walkway which starts in Lovran, will take you to the Austrian style town of Opatija, and all the way to the fishing village perfect for a spot of food, Volosko. The whole promenade is about 12 km long, so if you prefer not to do the whole stretch, it’s best to choose to go to one of the towns where you will also have the option to take a bus back. Stop for ice cream, a swim and a drink en route.
Culture Fix: The opulent Viennese theatre, HNK Zajc., set in a tranquil park in front of the fountain, was inaugurated in 1885. It’s decorated with statues and ornaments by the Venetian sculptor, Augusto Benvenutti, and if you look up, you’ll find paintings on the ceiling lit up by the glowing chandelier painted by Franz Matsch, and two brothers you may have heard of, Gustav and Ernst Klimt. The Viennese trio were commissioned by the Austrian architecture firm in charge of the theatre, who in fact designed hundreds more opulent buildings throughout Europe during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Another fun fact about the theatre is that it was the first building in the city with an electric lightbulb and telephone. Choose from a generous programme filled with musical concerts, dramas and ballet performances.
Fiesta Time: Just before Lent, the mayor of Rijeka hands over the keys to the city to the maestro of Rijeka Carnival, and that’s when the party starts. People from all over Croatia come and celebrate. The whole city becomes inundated with colours, costumes, music and joyousness. If you want to revel in more Croatian carnivals, you can find some smaller ones in Zadar and Samobor.
Off-beat Museums: Peek & Poke is a fun, geeky museum with old-school computers and tech including nostalgic video games.
Visit the planetarium at the Astronomical Center and don’t forget the spectacular views from the observatory too.
Strolls around Town: Amble down Korzo, the main street and pulse point of the city, admiring the architecture and people watching. Follow the Rjecina river promenade out of the city to what looks like the Bavarian countryside, with waterfalls, spring water, and a canyon. Rent some bikes (or simply walk) and stop to take a dip in the water. Another option is the Glina river.
WHERE TO EAT
Bistro Mornar is a local nautical themed restaurant which serves hearty seafood (and meat dishes) on checkered cloth tables.
Conca D’oro is a cosy restaurant with nice pizzas.
Cukarikafe Bar is a shabby chic bar with quirky antiques and homely furnishings like crochet tablecloths and mis-matched chairs.
WHERE TO STAY
The Melegran is an endearing boutique hotel peppered with little luxuries like an Olivetti typewriter and golden sinks.
Rovinj
Next stop, Croatia’s northern peninsula of Istria, lesser-known than Dubrovnik, and often overlooked. Rovinj makes a great base – an old Venetian Town, which still holds Italian as an official language alongside Croatian (it’s also pretty easy to take a direct ferry to Venice from here if you ever wanted to).
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Explore on Two Wheels: Rent a bicycle to cycle along the coast and into the forest. You can rent a bike almost everywhere in or close to the Old town of Rovinj and the marina.
Croatia’s own Fjord: Only a 20 minute drive away from Rovinj, Limski Kanal is a valley with emerald green water running for miles in between dramatic, unscathed cliffs (which are popular with some mountain climbers). Many would mistake a photo of the geographical site to be a Scandinavian fjord. Here you’ll find restaurants serving some of the best muscles in Istria. Stay for dinner to watch the sun set.
Truffle Hunting and feasting LIke a Local in the Mountains: Buzet is an inland town of truffles, and it boasts fragrant fresh olive oils, delicate honeys and fruitful wines. Prodan Tartufi is a family-run business which organises truffle hunts with the help of their adorable dogs. Finish off with a gourmand truffle dish and a glass of wine. Some truffle ice cream for dessert is the cherry on top.
Stop for food in the Croatian countryside village of Motovun: Toklarija is a traditional Istrian restaurant in a 600 year old olive mill hidden away in the mountains. Most of the ingredients are sourced from the family’s own garden or locally. Make sure to book in advance. Look for the mint green panels against the white facade of Konoba Mondo, where you can indulge in delicious pasta dishes laden with grated truffles. The New York Times called it “the best little restaurant you may never reach” and “what eating in the old world should feel like”. Similarly, if you go to visit Motovun, perhaps you could book yourself a truffle hunting experience as well where you go through the woods with dogs around Motovun forest which is rich with truffles.
Roman Ruins in all the Cracks of Grožnjan: Following your trip to Motovun, take a walk through the historic city of Grožnjan where the Romans once held court. Mention of this pretty historic municipality goes all the way back to 1102. If only these stone walls could talk.
Get your fix of Ancient History: About a 30 minute drive south from Rovinj, you’ll land upon Pula, which is the capital of Istria. During the ancient Roman times Pula was an administrative centre and today it’s filled with ancient remains and old forts. A few centuries later, from 1904 to 1905, James Joyce lived in the city with his wife and muse, Nora Barnacle and it’s where he taught English to Austro-Hungarian officers. The Pula Arena is one of the best preserved ancient Roman amphitheatres in the world and a more peaceful alternative to the Roman Colosseum. In fact, it’s the only amphitheatre in the world with all of its orders and four side towers preserved. Today, you can simply stop by for a stroll, buy tickets for a concert, or even attend an ice hockey game in the middle of summer. Another well preserved archeological spot nearby is the Temple of Augustus. For the Great War buffs out there, you can traverse the historic resting place for soldiers from WWI or maybe the tunnels built under the city to protect the citizens from attacks in the early 20th century. While you’re in town, you may also find the Pula Aquarium to be an amusing spot to check out with the kids – some prehistoric aquatic creatures await
Pula Arena source © Stefan Munder
Rock Jumping: Seagull’s Rocks is the most western beach in Pula, and it’s a great spot for jumping off the rocks, especially for daredevils who can choose to climb the big ones (some of which are up to 13 metres high). There are also secret caves and a magnificent sunset. Bring shoes for the rocky terrain!
Wild Swimming: At the most southerly tip of Istria, Cape Kamenjak is a national park with animals, wild orchids and seemingly untouched swimming spots, one hour’s drive south from Rovinj.
Take a day trip to the Brijuni Islands: The archipelago is made up of 14 islands and one of them is in the shape of a goldfish, but you can only visit two of them – Veliki (which is the bigger one) and Mali (the smaller one). Here you’ll find a cornucopia of natural wonders such as exotic flora and fauna bought from far away throughout history, a safari park, and even dinosaur footprints. You can easily get to the islands by taking a ferry just outside of Pula.
A Romantic Stroll: I would do Poreč in the evening – you can go to take a walk in Decumanus street (everything underneath you is from Roman times), there are few palaces there.
WHERE TO EAT
Mediterraneo Cocktail Bar source
Mediterraneo Cocktail Bar (pictured above) is cute, colourful and right on the water.
La Puntulina restaurant in Rovinj has some of the best seafood in town with a view to match.
Agroturizam Mekiši which is just 2km from Vižinada and great for rustic, diverse plates.
Café Lapidarium, if it’s open, is a great place to have a drink in palace Sinčić.
WHERE TO STAY
Villa Angelo and Villa Garbizza are picture perfect villas on the hilltops with magnificent views.
Spend the night in Spirito Santo Palazzo Storico, a boutique-style hotel set within a beautifully restored townhouse on a narrow atmospheric lane in Rovinj’s historic old town.
Rabac, directly on the coast is an idyllic coastal town with plenty of hotels and apartments to choose from and not far from the town Labin (just five minutes by car).
Dalmatia & the South
The Dalmatia region is a bit smaller than Connecticut and a bit bigger than half the size of Wales. It has the world’s most magical sunsets, waterfalls, mythical caves, mysterious islands and ancient ruins that starred in Game of Thrones. Both Zadar and Dubrovnik have international airports, but we’ll be avoiding over-crowded Dubrovnik for the road less travelled.
Zadar & Nearby Islands
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Sun & Moon worshipping: Alfred Hitchock once said Zadar had one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. It’s filled with pebbly beaches and quirky attractions such as the solar-powered Monument to the Sun that comes alight at sunset. The Sea Organ is another installation by the same architect which makes music using sea waves and tubes under the marble steps.
The Full Moon Festival takes place annually in July on the night of the full moon. The waterfronts become filled with music and stalls selling fresh produce, lit up by the pulsating candles flames and the hues of coloured lights.
Go Chasing Waterfalls: If you can, drive up to the Waterfalls of Plitvice the night before and stay around Rastovaca so that you can visit Plitvice first thing the next day at 7am to avoid crowds.
Plitvice waterfalls source
Learn how to make local cheese & Look for UFOs: The Gligora dairy on the island of Pag (about an hour’s drive from Zadar) is blessed with warm waters in the winter and secluded bays that make for wonderful sundowners. Alien spotters might also like to tick the Pag Triangle off their list. The curious land formation in the shape of a perfect isosceles triangle is believed to have been the site of a UFO landing. Others claim that it’s a sign of the Holy Trinity.
One of the oldest towns in the Mediterranean: 20 minutes drive from Zadar is Nin. The tiny medieval islet which spans just 500 metres is surrounded by the deep-blue Adriatic and is home to the world’s smallest cathedral, The Church of Holy Cross.
Find your sea legs: Charter a boat to the Kornati Islands which are great for wild swimming. At the Kornati National Park on the off-radar archipelago, you’ll find a real Mediterranean wilderness, and limestone rock formations riddled with caves once navigated by ancient mariners. Beneath the white sea cliffs of Dugi Otok are otherworldly subaquatic views of coral reefs and bottlenose dolphins
Take a boat to the heart-shaped island of Galesnjak.
A ferry ride away from Zadar, you can find the white-sand beach of Sakarun.
Discover Šibenik: Just over an hour’s drive south from Zadar is the historic town of Šibenik, with its picturesque narrow stone streets used for numerous Game of Thrones exterior scenes. The peaceful Medieval Mediterranean Garden in the St Lawrence Monastery is well worth the trip.
Take a quick day trip to Dinara’s Deep Hole: Hidden away in the little inland village of Cetina is the source of the Cetina river which runs 101 kilometres long all the way to the Adriatic Sea. The water at the source is as clear as what you’d find bottled up on the supermarket shelves, and the ominous deep hole is over 150 meters deep.
Cetina source
WHERE TO EAT
In Zadar, Bistro Kalelarga is good for tasty spider crab and pasta. If you decide to go to any of the waterfront tavernas for food, make sure to order the catch of the day.
At Zadar’s markets, farmers sell artisan products that would cost three times the price in the UK. Try some maraschino, the moreish Dalmatian drink made from marasca cherries that grow just outside of the city.
WHERE TO STAY
Almayer Art & Heritage Hotel is a homely and stylish hotel located in the old town of Zadar.
Hotel Boškinac is quintessentially Mediterranean with a cosy candle-lit garden surrounded by vineyards on the island of Pag.
Live like a retired fisherman on the Kornati Islands. We found this secluded and rustic home on its own private cove and this idyllic renovated fisherman’s hut right on the water.
Settle yourself on a private island resort next to Sibenik where you can glamp under the stars or stay in a boutique lodge. At the adults-exclusive oasis you can do morning yoga in the pine forest or on the beach, go kayaking, and visit workshops throughout the week.
Hvar
Catch a ferry to the island filled with fishing villages made up of cobbled streets peppered with colourful flower pots. Further inland is lined with olive orchards, fig trees and dreamy aromatic fields filled with sweet crops. Hvar is also home to plentiful natural beaches, but some of them are rocky, so you’ll want to bring special water shoes.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Visit the lavender fields: Did you know that Hvar is often called the “island of lavender”? Around half a century ago, it’s where nearly 10% of the world’s lavender was produced, but for reasons such as forest fires and emigration, the production of lavender began to dwindle. In recent years locals have been trying to revive the industry, and have been hosting the annual lavender festival in the town of Velo Grablje, where you can eat lavender ice cream and see the distilling process. Keep your eye out for more purple fields when driving past villages in the summer months when lavender is in full bloom.
Visit the Old Town: Stari Grad is one of the oldest towns in Europe, believed to be the oldest in the country, and it’s not as busy as the main Hvar town. Mosey past the ancient greek farm houses and storybook facades with brightly coloured window shutters and doors. For some architectural envy, visit Tvrdalj Castle, which was once the summer residence of Croatian poet, Petar Hektorović, where the luscious greens cuddle the historic walls. Walk through the garden, and look out for the little fish gliding in the pond.
Aye aye captain: Rent a boat for the day and seek out secluded areas where you can jump into the warm water and swim wherever you please. The Paklinski Islands are definitely worth a layover too.
Hidden Beaches: In a sequestered little area away from sights of any crowd, is the nice and chilled Pachamama Beach. Spend as long as you like here, sunbathing on the beach, napping in a hammock, drinking cocktails and smoothies, and eating colourful plates of food. Boats go from Hvar harbour every hour (look for the bright blue Pachamama Beach sign) from 10am to 1pm, with boats returning hourly from 4:40pm to 6:40pm.
Strand Mekićevica is another cove with a pebbly beach not so far away. Sturdy water shoes are recommended for some of the terrain.
To reach the secret Dubovica beach, you’ll need to park your car and walk about 10 minutes down the rocky path. It’s not the easiest place to get to, but it’s absolutely worth it. Eat some of the freshest seafood at the restaurant, caught only an hour before it’s on your plate.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Try fresh seafood under a pergola lined with fairy lights and tropical flowers at Restaurant Park.
Fig Cafe Bar is a local classic set in a side street, which serves food with twists inspired by the owners’ travels and is vegetarian/vegan-friendly.
High up in the hills, Humac is an uninhabited hamlet from the 17th century, filled with charming stone age houses. It’s home to a most fitting restaurant, Konoba Humac, which has no electricity (so, that means no bank cards here…), and uses an open fire for cooking. Be prepared to wait a little for some heavenly cooked dishes like Peka; a signature Dalmatian dish of meat and veggies melanged with olive oil from down the road and sweet spices (in fact it’s often a good idea to order a day before if possible).
WHERE TO STAY
Little Green Bay is an utterly idyllic, tranquil and rustic guest house right on the beach, nestled in seemingly endless natural scenery that pokes in from every window.
One of my personal favorite hotels and properties in Croatia are Lopud 1483, Maslina Resort.
Also, just a wild card option – Palmižana is one of the many small islands of the Paklinski archipelago, located just off the coast of the town of Hvar and has a wonderful quirky hotel with villas called the Palmizana Meneghello. There are ferries from Hvar all day. If you decide to stay on Hvar, you can rent boats or take a water taxi for a day trip to Pakleni Islands, which would be highly recommended.
But I’d suggest Airbnb options in Vrboska, Jelsa or Stari Grad rather than staying in Hvar town (most of the good beaches are out of town anyway). Pokonji dol, Zarace or Dubovica, Milna, are all nice beaches.
Have you thought about doing some of the islands from Hvar? I highly suggest jumping on a boat and enjoying the smaller islands and peaceful bays in the main summer months, whether it’s via your own boat or a local ferry from Split or Zadar closer to Istria. Islands that are not as well-known are Lopud closer to Hvar & Dubrovnik/ Split, but also Vis is really nice and further north towards Istria are Dugi Otok and Losinj — these are all hidden gems. Each island offers a unique experience of natural beauty, rich history, and local culture. If the sound of island hopping appeals to you, I’d stick to the Dalmation coast, there are less islands in Istria.
Escaping the Bustle of Dubrovnik
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Drink and Dive in Europe’s Underwater Wine Cellars: Edivovino, Croatia’s number one underwater winery (yes it’s not the only one) is located in Drače, an hour’s drive from Dubrovnik. As an avid diver and wine lover, Edi Bajurin decided to set up the business in 2011, encasing his wine bottles underwater inside traditional clay jugs, called an amphora, first used by the Ancient Greeks to transport their wine. Aged for 1-2 years, it’s been found that the perfect cooling conditions, minimal light and disturbance help the wine age faster. Once ready for consumption, Edivovino wine is sold in its amphora just as it emerged from the water – seashells, algae and all.
The winery also offers wine tastings that take the experience a step further with a dive to the underwater cellars to retrieve a bottle for yourself. A limited number of the winery’s Navis Mysterium bottles and amphorae are kept in a sunken boat on the seabed. Diving tours can be booked here.
Croatia was the first country in the world that started ageing wines underwater and has a handful of smaller local wineries offering visits to underwater cellars, including Coral Wines, founded by an entrepreneur who also owns a mussel and oyster farm producing smoked seafood products.
On the Set of Game of Thrones: The Trsteno Arboretum, where you can find giant plane trees, is the oldest arboretum on the Dalmatian coast. And yes, you might indeed recognise the gardens from the King’s Landing garden scenes in Game of Thrones.
Catching Your Dinner and Eating it Too: On the Dalmation coast by the way, the oyster farms in the Peljesac peninsula in southern Dalmatia — learning about and picking up oysters directly from the sea, while following the fantastic tasting experiences.
WHERE TO STAY
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Rent the whole Villa San Spirito fit for a classical goddess on the island of Lopud.
Surrounding Islands
Lopud is part of the Elaphiti Islands near Dubrovnik, a car-free island known for its truly local and still unspoiled atmosphere where you can experience real island life (somewhere special to stay). Dugi Otok is an ideal spot for nature lovers. It offers stunning cliffs, coves, Telašćica Nature Park and many beautiful beaches, making the island a paradise for those seeking tranquility.
Losinj, called the “Island of Vitality,” is known for its clean air, vibrant landscapes and aromatic pine forests. The island is perfect for nature lovers and those seeking rejuvenation in luxury hotels and top luxury villas.
Also underrated, Šibenik and the archipelago comprising Zlarin, Prvic and Krapanj islands (most of these locations are also still not so popular because they lack luxury hotels. They offer a different kind of beauty—more natural, peaceful, and authentic). Šibenik is often bypassed for the more famous Dalmatian cities like Split and Zadar, but this medieval town is rich with history and charm and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It has a more local, authentic atmosphere, rich cultural life, music concerts and smaller festivals.
Urban Exploring on the Dalmatian Coast Kupari is a bay on the Adriatic Sea in an area considered to have the best beaches in the country. With the shock of the coronavirus, hotels will inevitably be more quiet than usual this summer. But very few resorts will be as ghostly as the Kupari luxury resort, which hasn’t seen any paying guests since its last season more than 20 years ago. In the 1960s, modern-day Croatia was part of the Socialist Federation of Yugoslavia, and under the rule of Josip Broz, (a.k.a Tito), Kupari underwent a major transformation into a luxury holiday resort for the military elite of the Yugoslav People’s Army and their families. The resort was made up of several hotels including the Pelegrin, the Kupari, Goričine, Goričine II, and the Grand Hotel. Tito had his own stylish holiday home of course, and for the more outdoorsy types, there was also the Kupari auto camping site which could accommodate a further 4,500 guests. In the 1980s, Kupari was opened up to foreign tourists (and their much needed western currency) and right up until its last season, the resort was as desirable as any European hotspot. But after the summer of 1991, all that changed… You never expect war zones to have turquoise water and white sandy beaches but the Croatian War of Independence saw this peaceful paradise dragged into a devastating fight for freedom. As the Yugoslav People’s Army were about to obliterate Dubrovnik, Yugoslav naval ships also began surrounding the bay. A small unit of Croatian police were protecting the resort but on October 4th, the first shot was fired at the hotels. Only twenty days later, the Yugoslav People’s Army had regained control of their former military resort. Just one problem; their warships had all but destroyed it. After a counter attack in May 1992, the Croatians successfully gained independence and were back at Kupari. Following the war, things didn’t get much better for the resort however as the complex once owned by the Yugoslav army was stripped of everything of value. Years of looting and plundering left Kupari as not much more than a skeleton of the luxury resort it once was. Left untouched for 20 years now, only recently have there been talks of bringing Kupari back to its former glory. A few years back, Turkish investors of the Rixos Group who have restored several hotels around Dubrovnik which were also destroyed during the war showed their interest. No word since their visit in October 2012, but the project to regenerate the hotel complex is said to be worth around 400 million Euros. They certainly have their work cut out for them…  source |
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